So, I am stepping in this week to talk about ski resorts which apart from reading, is probably the subject my life centres on most this time of year. Whether it’s colleagues in my office popping over for questions on which resort is best [I am thinking about opening a helpline], booking my own trip, or waving goodbye to my sister who is heading back to Morzine for another season in a week – I do spend an inordinate amount of time talking about skiing.
For me, my precious week [or two if I can squeeze it in!] needs careful thought and consideration. With so many resorts out there I love and want to revisit how can I possibly choose?! Of course there are a few that stand out for me over the others filled with great memories. This year I will be heading back to St Anton am Arlberg, Austria. Why, you ask? Well read on…
Now St Anton is famous, famous for nightlife, famous for skiing, famous for the look of its perfect Austrian cookie cut out town. St Anton is for everyone, it is the ultimate magical winter playground. Last year we stayed in a large chalet in town and my parents came. I love a chalet for skiing mostly because the Jenga tournaments over several bottles of wine can turn into some of the best entertainment your friends can provide you with but also because you get to have a cosy place to roost between hitting the nightlife. St Anton is not a cheap resort but if you find a quiet week there are deals to be had. To be frank if you want a cheap deal go somewhere else, but forgive me for saying it – isn’t that the glamour – personally I quite like wondering if the woman with her furs and diamonds opposite me in the bubble lift isn’t Sofia Loren behind those dark glasses.
St Anton’s nightlife is not a quiet affair; the Après Ski can be perilous. The infamous Krazy Kanguruh is a perfect location to start the downhill process. If need be you are close enough to a road to call a cab if you can’t put two skis in front of the other for the ride home or get the none skiers involved. Then you can slip on your bottom to the Moosewirt where the party continues well into the night.
There are a host of other locations for you to drain your glass if you fancy and of course a rabble of bars where you can dowse yourself in mulled wine or as they call it Gluhwien. We were often served this in homely mugs with cartoon depictions which made it even more warming. I suggest handing a good afternoon, evening and the inevitable morning to the Après Ski so you can appreciate the full effect.
If all this jostling shoulder to shoulder is too much for you and you prefer the quieter life you could try out some of the fantastic restaurants. My parent’s favourite is The Museum which although expensive is a beautiful setting for a romantic meal. It was built in 1912 and was once the headquarters of the SS in WWII; it now houses a museum on the top floor since its renovation in the 70’s. Perfect for pretending you are in the Sound of Music being taken to dinner with Baron Von Trapp.
If you are little more budget conscious like my friends and I were, we tried The Underground which is a stones throw away from The Museum. This was a wonderful fondue filled restaurant with resident dog [whom I suspected had been around some time] and a great atmosphere. There was also some live music which livened the place up with dancing around the tables at the end of the night.
As for the skiing well it’s world class and suits everyone, we ventured out of St Anton with our group of mixed ability [my best friend Lucy is our Ski Mum as a trained instructor] and headed over the Oberlech and Sonnenkopf and I can honestly say that they are some of the best slopes in the world. Breathtaking views at every corner mean that even the most hardened of skiers are left breathless.
The best thing about skiing is that burning all those calories means you can sample the local delights without feeling guilty – hot chocolates, artisan cakes and bratwursts are all de rigueur, but if you really want to try something special have a Germknoedel, which is an Austrian sweet dumpling as big as your noggin which you can have with Vanilla sauce. I watched a six year old come racing out of ski school in a full on pink outfit to jump in the queue to make sure she didn’t miss out on these – when she had acquired hers she gave me a sticky grin which left me in no doubt that this is just the food professional skiers need.
If you don’t fancy skiing you could always take a carriage ride in Lech or my personal recommendation of wrapping yourself in the furs of the Lech Champagne Ice Bar and guzzling some Veuve over a good book. Well after all you are on holiday…
- Lauren
Notes From…Edinburgh
Notes From…Stockholm
Notes from… Hamburg
